Crampons
- Alessia Masciocchi
- Jan 23, 2024
- 8 min read
Updated: Jul 16, 2024
What are crampons?
These alien beings can be considered the heirs of spiked shoes that were used at the dawn of mountaineering: they are essential for walking on icy snow and ice (glaciers, steep snowy slopes, icefalls, shady and icy trails in the woods).
The types of crampons are becoming increasingly specific, covering a range of activities from Sunday outings to expeditions like those in the Himalayas. A simpler crampon cannot be used for something more technical. Just think of the difference between a traditional crampon and a more technical one that allows climbing overhanging icefalls.
Different types of mountain crampon attachments
Universal crampons and micro-spikes
These have a "strap-on" attachment, usually with nylon or elastic rubber straps; they can be used with any shoe or boot (even trail shoes). They are easy to put on and, thanks to the rubber bands, adhere well to the footwear. Micro-spikes have already been discussed (in a post you will find below). Universal crampons and micro-spikes are cheap, versatile, easy to use, and lightweight; however, they have less aggressive points, tend to lose fit on the boot, and lack the same precision as (semi)automatic models.
Automatic crampons
This model is used with specific boots: automatic-crampon-compatible boots. They consist of a metal frame that holds the toe in place and a rear cable with a tension lever that secures the crampon to the heel. Crampon-compatible boots are recognizable by specific grooves in the toe and heel, in addition to the rigid sole. The attachment is called step-in and, although is heavier, requires skill in use. On the flip side, this system is easier to put on and safer, becoming one with the boot. This type of attachment is found on both flexible and rigid crampons, being technical models that aim to ensure the least possible oscillation.
Semi-automatic crampons
Also called mixed or hybrid, they have only one lever on the heel, usually with a strap on the toe. Like automatic crampons, they require a rigid sole and a heel groove. They are easy to put on even with gloves, as it is not necessary to clean and align the edge of the toe; just position the heel lever and pull the strap. They are excellent for medium-difficulty winter hikes, but automatic crampons are preferred for mountaineering.
Why is compatibility between crampons and boots important?
It is the key to performance and safety. Universal crampons work on lightweight trekking boots, but they are not suitable for mountaineering or ice climbing. Also, if the sole is flexible, the crampon does not adapt as well as on a rigid sole. The flexibility of the footwear should be matched with that of the crampon. Therefore, with more flexible boots, you should choose a crampon with a flexible central bar.
Crampons: materials, weight, and construction
Materials
Steel is the best ally of mountaineering. Crampons made of this material are essential for technical terrain. Even better is stainless steel, which offers additional corrosion resistance. Aluminium crampons are suitable for approaches and hiking: they are lighter but wear out more on rocky terrain.
Weight
The weight of a pair of crampons can vary from 600 to 1000 grams. The lightest ones are aluminium, but saving on weight leads to crampons with less durability and resistance. Therefore, it is advisable to avoid using this material for mixed climbing on rock and snow, where steel is preferable.
Rigid and semi-rigid crampons:
Semi-rigid crampons are most commonly used, but rigid crampons are still available on the market. The former offer good performance in broader conditions, such as sufficient flexibility for winter walks combined with moderate stiffness for ice climbing.
On some models, the connecting bar (between toe and heel) can be adjusted, changing from semi-rigid to flexible, making them comfortable for hiking.
The shape of the boots should also be considered: semi-rigid crampons are easier to adjust and adapt to a greater variety of boots. For example, with a very curved boot, you can get an asymmetric central bar for a better fit.
Mountain crampons: different types of points
Number of points
Most crampons have 10-12 points, positioned from heel to toe. Currently, models with serrated side points are available, allowing crampons to grip more in snow and ice. Crampons specifically for ice or mixed climbing can have up to 14 points, often adjustable and replaceable.
Specifically, those for ice climbing sometimes allow modification of the type and length of the front points.
Horizontal and vertical front points
Front points are crucial in crampons: they come in handy on particularly steep slopes, where they may bear the entire body weight. There are two types of front points: horizontal and vertical. The former are more suitable for soft snow and ice, distributing weight over a larger surface (resulting in greater grip on snow); the latter are suitable for hard ice, resembling the blade of an ice pick and used in icefalls and mixed terrain. The latter are more precise than the former but are also more delicate.
About crampons and more
Bindings
Bindings are the straps, levers, and adjustment systems that connect the crampon to the boot. The bindings are fundamental because they determine the fit and stability of the crampon on the boot. Strap-on crampons have a binding with two or more straps; the automatic model has a lever on the heel and a toe stop; the semi-automatic crampon has only one lever on the heel and a strap on the toe. Bindings should be easy to adjust, and the fewer moving parts, the better. There are crampons with a small plastic shelf to adjust the size of the boot.
Anti-balling plates
When walking on wet snow or during thaw, snow accumulates under the crampon. To avoid this, there is an anti-balling plate on the base of the crampon, which helps prevent the snow from balling up and affecting performance. It is an element to consider, especially for spring outings or in the presence of wet snow. There are also models with replaceable plates, designed to be changed when they wear out or become damaged.
These are "anti-clogging" plates, namely ABS plastic or rubber shields that prevent the formation of a snowball under the boots (which can be dangerous as it causes slipping). Not all crampons come with them. It is recommended to check and purchase them in case your model lacks them. Some models may require specific researches.
Crampon cases and point covers
To prevent damage (to both the person and the equipment) from crampon points, two options exist:
Use rubber point covers.
Store crampons in special nylon cases (durable and puncture-resistant).
Gaiters
During crampon use, it is advisable to use sturdy gaiters to protect the legs from potential scratches, commonly known as "cramponing."
Spare parts
The spare parts to consider most are:
Central bars (can make the crampon more or less rigid and allow extending a crampon to fit larger boots).
Extra blades for the front and heel.
Screws.
Crampons: maintenance and care
Sharpening and adjustment
It is good practice to check the crampons periodically, especially after using them on rock. It is necessary to sharpen the points (preferably with a diamond file), and the anti-balling plate must be cleaned of any dirt or snow accumulation.
The heel lever, the straps, and the other components must be checked to ensure they are working properly. It is essential to use the correct tools to make adjustments and ensure the reliability of the crampon.
Storage
After use, the crampons should be cleaned of any mud or snow. They should be dried thoroughly, and it is recommended to store them in a cool and dry place to prevent rust. Storing crampons in a wet environment can lead to corrosion and affect their performance and lifespan.
How to use crampons
No one, at the beginning, knows everything about crampon use. I personally conducted research and participated in courses to thoroughly analyse this topic. Always start before the excursion with a check of the equipment, albeit repetitively, to ensure the performance of your gear.
Training and small tips for using crampons
Practicing at home while wearing gloves is a useful pastime, but not only that: by getting used to gloves at home, when in the actual environment, we can minimize objects that could get caught in the points.
Avoid loose clothing with laces or straps hanging near the feet and ankles.
With gaiters, keep the buckles facing outward.
Tighten the straps for a solid contact between the sole and crampon frames.
Always check that the crampons are securely fastened (preferably at every break).
How to walk with crampons?
Let's go uphill!
Flat-footed technique (or French)
When? Where? On steep slopes. On slopes that do not exceed 40-45°.
How? The goal is to have as many teeth as possible in contact with the snow, so the foot must land flat. It is not recommended to have only the front teeth in contact with the snow (which would be balancing on an edge, increasing the risk of slipping). Ideally, match the sole angle with the slope angle. Proceed with slightly apart legs.
Frontal technique (or German)
When? Where? During ice climbing or on slopes with a slope greater than 45°.
How? Give a sort of kick to the ground to firmly embed the two front points (and most of the notch) in the ice. Continue by rising on tiptoes, ensuring to shift all body weight onto the two front points, leaving the rest of the foot suspended.
Step by step:
Tilt the foot to have the boot sole perpendicular to the ice.
Position yourself in the "tabletop" position, bringing the leg back relative to the knee but keeping the quadriceps in the same place.
Kick the foot forward, with a fluid movement, to make contact with the ice (repeat until a secure grip is found).
Hybrid technique (or American)
When? Where? On steep terrain where the flat-footed technique might not be safe, while the frontal one could tire too quickly.
This is a combination of the two previous techniques.
How? Use one foot flat and the other frontal. The kicking foot should go directly into the slope with the front points, and the flat foot should be spread to embed all the teeth in the snow.
Let's go downhill!
Would you have ever thought that descent is the most dangerous part and more prone to accidents? Factors to consider include fatigue, gravity pulling downward, and warmed snow. Here are some suggestions on how to descend with crampons:
Maintain an agile position, with knees loose, bent, and wider than the shoulders.
Point the toes in the direction you are moving: when descending and on switchbacks, they should be directed diagonally across the slope.
Removing crampons
Where? When? Once a flat area is reached, where the snow is soft enough, wet, or deep enough to the ankles. It would be preferable in a safe and flat place, where the consequences of a fall can be minimised.
In a nutshell
The choice of crampons depends on the activity you plan to undertake. Here are some general guidelines:
Universal crampons: Suitable for less technical activities, such as winter hiking and easy snow slopes. They are versatile and can be used with a variety of footwear.
Automatic crampons: Ideal for mountaineering and ice climbing with specific boots. They provide a secure and precise fit, making them suitable for more challenging terrain.
Semi-automatic crampons: A good compromise between versatility and technical performance. They work well for moderate mountaineering and mixed climbing.
Steel crampons: Preferable for technical terrain and ice climbing. They offer durability and resistance, making them suitable for demanding conditions.
Aluminium crampons: Lightweight and suitable for approaches and hiking on snow, but less durable on rocky terrain.
Crampon points: Consider the number and type of points based on the terrain you'll encounter. Serrated side points can provide better grip in certain conditions.
Front point type: Choose between horizontal and vertical front points based on the predominant terrain (soft snow/ice or hard ice).
Binding system: Select the binding system that suits your boots and preferences. Ensure it provides a secure and adjustable fit.
Anti-balling plates: Consider the presence of anti-balling plates, especially if you'll be encountering wet snow or spring conditions.
Maintenance: Regularly check and maintain your crampons to ensure they are in good working condition. Sharpen points, clean anti-balling plates, and inspect bindings for any issues.
Remember, when in doubt, seek advice from experienced climbers or outdoor professionals, and choose crampons that match the specific requirements of your planned activities.
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